Thursday, March 31, 2011

Rome Day 5- the final chapter

Well today was day 5, our last day here in Rome and I have to say our trip has been wonderful beginning, middle and end (although maybe I shouldn't type that until after I'm home for sure). We slept in late this morning for the first time, and Marc took this picture of me at our window because he wanted to be sure to document that baby Charlie was with us in Rome. :) And I hope you remember that fact when you see all these pics and think I look a bit "fluffy" shall we say.
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We first walked over to Amber's hotel, The Columbus, which was built in the 1400s and is just a gorgeous step back in time. We found Aunt Amber and Marky (who had spent the night for "cousin fun night") having breakfast in the most beautiful breakfast room- the walls and ceilings are all frescoes- we sat and chatted a bit and then went up to the room to say goodbye to them as they were flying out today.
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After a light breakfast we meandered around some shops and got some drinks to take to sit in St. Peter's square and just enjoy the sunshine-
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It was quickly lunch time and we met an American family from Alabama with whom we had mutual friends and had a great lunch and realized we had so much in common and had wonderful conversation. We ate at a great restaurant and had street musicians in the background.
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After lunch with our new friends it was off church exploring. First stop- Santa Maria sopra Minerva, so named because it was built on the site of a shrine to the goddess Minerva- and it happens to be the only Gothic church in Rome. A friend told me this church was a "jewel box" and that is surely correct. (The obelisk was for Minerva)
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I love the dark jewel-toned colors throughout
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I was shocked to find this beautiful statute by Michelangelo called "The Redeemer",
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And St. Catherine of Sienna is buried here under the high altar-
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Next stop was supposed to be the Church of Il Gesu where St. Ignatius of Loyola is buried, but it was closed from 12-3 (like many many churches are for some reason). So we decided to make the best of it and have gelato!
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Walking around searching for taxis led to some fun discoveries- for instance, my own shop-
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And we discovered that Marc could not be any kind of driver or even maintenance worker in Rome. Tuck Tuck has bigger cars than they do- this is Marc thinking- "that ain't a F-150"
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After finding a taxi we made our way to San Clemente- to say this church is a step back in time is an understatement. Unfortunately you can't take one picture anywhere in the entire church. The fascinating thing is- San Clemente was built on top of a church that had been built in the the 300s and was sacked in the Norman conquest. They just filled it in with dirt and built over top of it. Excavation found the church underneath today's church in wonderful condition and you can see how the earliest Christians worshiped- and there are still beautiful frescoes on the walls. But even more exciting is the fact that you can go down another level still and see an original house church owned by a priest named Clement who was a contemporary of St. Peter and the Apostles. There is also a house under the 2nd level church that had a Mithrian shrine and school attached that you can see. So you get to see a church under a church under a church. Oh- and St. Cyril is buried there.
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After San Clemente we journeyed out to St. Peter in Chains. This church, I bet you guessed, has the chains that held St. Peter in jails both in Jerusalem and in Rome.
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Little man lights candles for people in every church we enter- this one was for Noah and Charlie.
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And this is the church with Michelangelo's famous "Moses" sculpture-
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Leaving St. Peter in Chains we went looking for a taxi and walked past this church and found it to be so beautiful inside.
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Finding a taxi, we made our stop to the last church of the day, Santa Maria degli Angeli, that is St. Mary of the Angels. This Church was exciting to Marky b/c it was built in an old Roman bath house built by the evil Emperor Diocletian on the backs of Christian slaves. This bath house reeked with ridiculous opulence and was a sign that the end was near for the Roman empire- it was humongous. In the 1500s Michelangelo was called on to design a church for the bath houses that had basically just sat there empty for over 1,000 years. He designed it in the syle of a Greek cross, and it was the final project of his life. It was completed two years after his death, but you can see and appreciate his design for light and space and openness.
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Head of John the Baptist
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What I loved most about this church is thinking about the evil Emperor Dioceltian beating the Christian slaves and forcing them to build this ridiculous-sized bath house and what he would think today if he saw that the only water here is Holy Water and the God of the Christians is adored and loved and the Church is more beautiful and grand than it ever was as that bath house. St. Bruno is buried here, by the way. I wish I'd taken more pictures. By the way, when this church was built the Pope at the time issued a papal coin that said, "That which served as a pagan function is now a temple to the Virgin. It's founder is Pius. Begone Satan!"

After this church, we headed home, so full of satisfaction with our journey in Rome to see where the Church began and how it has grown. I just feel contentment more than anything. Tonight we had the most special treat of going out to dinner with a friend from our hometown and his colleagues here in Rome. The two men were from our town and one woman was from Germany and one was from all over, but mainly Rome. They all spoke many languages and were full of life. We had the most delightful conversations and ate at a real "Roman" (as opposed to Italian) restaurant that was in an old Roman home. It was called il Barroccio et Faciolaro near the Pantheon.
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Marky was with us and spent his time looking out the window to the alley at the street musicians- and we were there for hours. He's a good boy.
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For dessert we had a special gelato on top of fresh strawberries treat.
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Then we came back to our hotel one last time and got ready for our big flight tomorrow. If you read this, please say a prayer for safe travel. Well, there are just no words to say how blessed and thankful I am for this trip. Goodnight.
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Wednesday, March 30, 2011

Rome Day 4

Today was the day for the Papal audience and it was so exciting. Amber, Dennis and Noah had seats that the North American College had never been able to get for Americans- right in the front row where they were with a mere handful of dignitaries. We had great seats in the reserved section RIGHT BESIDE the Pope. We never would have guessed we could have been so close. The address was at 10:30, but we arrived at 8:00.m. and sat out in front of St. Peter's and enjoyed the beautiful day.
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Going to St. Peter's square for a Papal audience really shows you how the Church is universal. We were surrounded by what seemed like every single country and race. It was so beautiful and made me think this is what heaven is like.
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Look how close we were to his chair-
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Marky loved to watch the Swiss Guard- and don't let the garb fool you- the word is these guys are no-nonsense type of guys.
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Then at 10:30 here comes Papa Benedict in the Pope Mobile!
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He gave a long address in Italian and then greeted all the many groups from all over the world in a ton of different languages.
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It was like a pep rally- everyone sat down until their organization was called and then they would jump up and scream and shake their banners-
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And at the end of his address we ALL (everyone from all the countries) prayed the "Our Father" in Latin and received the Papal blessing. Amber, Dennis and Noah got to actually walk right up to the Pope's chair and he said "ah, you are from America?" and they asked for a blessing and he put both his hands on Noah's head and gave him a long blessing under his breath in Latin. It was AMAZING!! Marc was videoing so we couldn't talk and I kept pinching him saying "this can't be real?!!" Here they are walking up the stairs- Amber's in the long purple coat and black skirt. She gave the Pope one of Noah's green bracelets and he took it!
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After our amazing morning we ran to the hotel to change clothes and then went to lunch and got Pizza and "Coke Light"-
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After lunch we headed out with our new docent on a trip to tour the Catacombs of Priscilla and St. Agnes. Talk about fascinating! The Catacombs of Priscilla held 50,000 Christian bodies- there were niches in the wall and "dust" left in them from their former occupants. This catacomb was all Christian and had a lot of beautiful Christian artwork still left on the walls by the more wealthy people's tombs. There was a Madonna and Child drawn there that has been dated to having been drawn at 170 A.D. at the latest. Here she is on the right with Isaiah pointing to the star-

We weren't allowed to take pictures- but I found this on the internet and it's exactly how it looked-

And the image of the Good Shepherd was again and again- it's in the center of this beautiful ceiling-

Our docent was a theology guy and knew every thing there is to know about the imagery and how it related to Christ. Fascinating for sure.

After going to the Priscilla Catacombs, we went over to the St. Agnes catacombs, but we did not go down below- instead we focused on the churches and mausoleums they built on top of the catacombs. First stop- Santa Constanza's. I had really hoped to see this church. The legend is that Constantina was Constanine's daughter and was cured from a terminal illness by praying at the grave of St. Agnes to intercede to Christ for her (Agnes was a 13year-old virgin martyred b/c she would not marry a pagan). As you know, Constantine (through a series of many events) became a Christian and legalized Christianity. When his daughter eventually died from other causes he made this beautiful, round, light and airy mausoleum and placed it right beside St. Agnes's church.
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You really feel you've gone back in time and can't believe you are in a mausoleum planned by Constantine himself and the mosaic tile that surrounds the entire circle is the arguably the best-preserved original Christian tiling in the world.
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The altar in which her body now lies-
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Here we are in front of a copy of her sarcophagus (the original is in the Vatican museum and we saw it on Monday). It was made of porphyry which is an extremely expensive and rare purple marble from Egypt. (this is blurry and I hope to replace it with Amber's copy of the pic one day)
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Leaving Santa Costanza's we walked next door to St. Agnes' Church.
Again, another beautiful heavenly place- and what a ceiling!
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After seeing the Pope, catacombs, and churches we headed to the bridge I've been wanting to see this whole time- the angel bridge. It crosses the tiber (just like we did- metaphorically speaking) and has 10 huge angels made in the 1600s that have in their hands the instruments from Christ's passion. What a perfect thing to see during Lent. Marky was able to guess all the instruments including the cat of nine tails and the scourging pillar.
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The angel with the nails....
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Walking along the tiber river this time of day is so peaceful-
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The boys finally got these rubbery squishy balls that the street vendors had been tempting them with all week- they were thrilled! P.S. You may notice Marky always has his backpack with him- in it are his colored pencils and a sketch pad and his favorite book on Rome that he gets out as often as he can. It's really sweet.
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Such a fun, blessed day. Then tonight we went to a recommended restaurant on a beautiful cobblestone back street and had the best time.
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Afterward we walked down a way and found the most precious sweet shoppe and got the boys gelato and celebrated Marky upcoming birthday by letting him and Noah both eat TWO gelato cones a piece!
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Tonight Marc is spending the night at Noah's hotel. They have two twin beds in their room and the boys are beside themselves- they keep calling it "cousin fun night". They have had a blast. Sweetly, Marky asked, "mommy can you run back to our hotel and bring me Grrrr (his bear)". He gets so big and smart and you think he's all grown up, but then he asks for Grrr and I know he's still my baby. Well, that's day 4- only one more day to go. I have a long list of things I'd like to do tomorrow, but we shall see how the day unfolds. Take Care and Good night!